We had our proper Hong Kong yum cha (more correctly called dim sum) at Maxim's Palace inside the City Hall building (a short walk from the IFC2 building - part of which is called the airport express because it links to the relevant trains). This is a restaurant just for dim sum, and it's as huge as it is popular.
By sheer good luck, we were let inside almost immediately. Our group of eight people had twenty-four different dishes including steamed pork buns, barbecued pork buns with egg custard glaze, fried shrimp noodle things, steamed vegetable dumplings, deep-fried squid tentacles, custard tarts, and mango pudding. So light, so sweet, so deep-fried.
The servers come around with trolleys and give you whichever dishes sound good to you at the time. There are always literally dozens of options, and a constant stream of trolleys. Going to dim sum in Hong Kong was one of the most delicious ideas I've ever had.
