Fly into Hobart early on Saturday morning. Pick up a rental car and head straight to the famous Salamanca Market. Get lost among the stalls and grab yourself a warm treat for breakfast as you wander. Be sure to buy some of the world famous in Tasmania Olde Spikey Bridge peanut butter and stop for a few minutes to listen to the live music.
Hop back in the car and find your way up Mount Wellington. The sky up there is often so low it's almost brushing your shoulders, but if you're lucky you'll spot an icing sugar dusting of snow. Find a lookout and take a panorama of the city and the sea. This is the view you wanted to get out of the plane window, but kept getting obscured by the wing.
Wind your way back down. Pause and marvel at the beautiful Cascades Brewery building, and find your way to the Female Factory, a little further down the road. It pays to do a walking tour, although you can walk through alone. Read about the women imprisoned there, and learn what life was like behind those ruined walls.
Check in at your hotel, or B&B. I recommend staying somewhere in the historic Battery Point. From there, it's a short stroll to Salamanca Place and the heart of Hobart, although convenience aside, it's worth staying there for the beauty of it. After you've checked in, take some time to wander around Battery Point, taking in the rambling winter roses and elaborate eaves, shuttered windows and pretty porches. It could almost be a market town in England.
The quaint post office at Battery Point has a distinctly English feel
Head to a Dark Mofo exhibition or live show in Salamanca Place. The dark falls early in wintery Hobart. Head across the road to the Winter Feast for dinner. Try to get a seat at the candlelit banquet, otherwise navigate your way among the stalls in search of dinner. Don't go past the doughnuts from Lady Hester Eats. Warm your bones with some orange and cinnamon hot chocolate and soak up the atmosphere.
Reserve the morning for exploring some of the galleries around Hobart, but day two is mostly for exploring the surrounds. Notice the wild, romantic landscape as you drive; the green hills, the density of eucalyptus trees, the old tumbled down barns; relics of time past. Stop in Richmond, a snapshot of Georgian England, and visit Old Hobart Town, the miniature village capturing the early days of Hobart. Keep driving to Oatlands, with its little wildlife reserve, windmill, the gallery with a spindly tree full of apples and houses full of history. Drive a little further and pick up a bottle of your favourite poison from the Old Kempton Distillery.
On Monday morning, get up and have breakfast at Solstice on Salamanca Place. Watch the locals start their day. Afterwards, drive to Port Arthur and explore the crumbling ruins, learning about some of Tasmania's famed convict history. It's a sobering experience. Drive back towards Hobart, drop your car off at the airport and fly home.
You'll be planning your return to Tasmania before you've landed.
Go: Dark Mofo starts from the 7th, but the real magic is between the 12th and the 24th of June.
Stay: Your pick of places in Battery Point.
Eat: Amici and Solstice get notable mentions here. And of course, the Winter Feast.
Wear: Every warm layer you own.
Don't forget: An umbrella