Tartine Bistro and Wine Bar

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The night we visited Tartine , the rain was pouring down, and Melbourne was under flood watch. And yet, as soon as we walked into the restaurant, all that was forgotten. It was like entering a haven of calm. Well not exactly calm, because the restaurant was pretty much full, even at 6.30pm on a weeknight. Tartine has already gained a positive reputation in just two months of operation. But it felt welcoming and warm, the lighting subdued, and it was easy to forget the chaos outside.

Tartine is in a venue in the inner east formerly occupied by the Meatball & Wine Bar. Historically, the building was a branch of the National Bank of Australasia, built in 1886-7. The elegant building still retains the fine lines of its era, including the high ceilings, while presenting a freshness and modernness in the fit-out.



The delightful Meghan showed us to our table and presented us with the wine list. There is an impressive list of wines by the glass and bottle, as well as beers, spirits and cocktails. There are also some delicious sounding champagne cocktails, such as the Tartine Royal (Charles Collin Champagne, Creme de Cassis, Cinq a Sept Pinot Noir Vermouth, Plum Bitters) ($24).



The food menu fits on one page, although you can expect to find some specials on the blackboard as well. Before diving into the menu, it's helpful to have a little understanding of the meaning of 'Tartine', as tartines (pronounced 'tar-teens') are a critical component of that menu. Tartine is French for 'open sandwich', but think very elegant toppings on artisan made sourdough bread. In fact there are six such gourmet tartines on the menu, and you might find a daily special or two on the board.

The menu is heavily weighted towards smaller dishes, suitable for sharing, with just three main courses listed. The influence of self-confessed Francophile and hatted Chef Andrew Beddoes is evident in the menu design. Tartine comes out of a collaboration between Beddoes and Matteo Bruno, owner of The Meatball & Wine Bar .

Meghan suggested we ordered a couple of the 'bites' or charcuterie dishes, one tartine, and one main course - to share between two of us. She also recommended we should try to reserve a tiny bit of space for dessert. The amount of food was easily enough to satisfy the two of us dining.

We started with the saucisson (a slow-aged, air-dried pork sausage and a staple of French food culture) ($16) and pate en croute ($19), each served with a small handful of cornichons. The latter is a work of art on a plate - effectively a pork terrine topped with a port wine jelly, encased in a pastry crust. The silky jelly was a delightful textural and flavour contrast to the terrine.



It was tough to choose just one tartine from the delicious sounding list of options, but we selected the Pissaladierre anchovies, with caramelised onion and green olives ($22). Unlike other tartines on the menu, this one is served on more of a brioche style bread. We are anchovy fans, and thought it was a clever pairing of the salty fish with the sweet and rich lusciousness of the onion and the slightly sweet bread.



For the main course, we selected the cote de pork served with charred cabbage, civet pork cheek and quince ($41). The pork was melt-in-the-mouth succulent, the dish given delicious complexity from its accompanying ingredients, particularly the clever inclusion of the quince, as well as the flavoursome jus.



I was completely full by this stage, but couldn't resist the apple tarte tatin, served with Calvados creme fraiche ($18) from the dessert menu. It was served piping hot, fresh out of the oven. It would be difficult to imagine a more perfect way to round out a wonderful meal. It was a triumph!



There is so much to commend Tartine. As mentioned, the ambience is calm and welcoming, the service was faultless, and the food we tried was outstanding. I hope to make a return visit in the near future.

While the pricing might make Tartine more of a special occasion dinner venue, the tartine section on the menu makes it a more affordable option for lunch. I can easily imagine popping in for a tuna a la Provencale tartine ($25) for lunch, perhaps washed down with a cheeky glass of French wine.

The management team has plans to extend the opening hours to include Sunday brunch, so keep an eye on Tartine's website and the Facebook page for updates.

Tartine is located at 105 Swan Street, Richmond. It is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.

Click here to reserve your table.

For any queries, call Tartine on (03) 9428 3339, or email via [email protected].

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