Charcoal grilled octopus. Author image.
A Greek chef I met many years ago in the
Cyclades told me that the best method for tenderising octopus was to beat it on the ocean rocks. '
Then it's dried on a line in the sun, before being grilled over charcoal,' he said. I'm not sure if that's how
Stavros the Greek treats this delicious denizen of the deep. All I know is that the charcoal grilled octopus I had there on the weekend was the most sublime seafood dish I've enjoyed in a long time. Tender, tasting of the sea, splashed with chilli extra virgin olive oil, and served with a slice of lemon. It was a little bit like receiving a love letter from Santorini ... or maybe that last bit was the house red (also with Greek pedigree) talking.
Room with a view. Author image.
Greek food has long been considered the poor cousin of European cuisine, but it has so much more to offer than
moussaka and
dolmades, to name a couple of dishes which have made it to the mainstream.
Stavros the Greek celebrates this country's 4000-year culinary history with familiar street choices such as
souvlaki and
yiros (both offered with a choice of pork belly, lamb leg, or chicken thigh) and nods to tradition such as the lamb
soutzoukakia (meat balls served with tomato capsicum sauce and
kefalograviera, a type of hard cheese, grated on top). Fresh seafood also features prominently on the
Stavros the Greek menu - think lightly battered whitebait, herbed sardines, king prawns, calamari. As for dessert, refreshing contemporary twists surface, with the chocolate and feta cheese tart (served with lemon curd, olive oil mousse, and black salt) standing alongside the more traditional almond
baclava.
Crumbed whitebait with aioli. Author image.
The interior of
Stavros the Greek is sophisticated but welcoming - all high ceilings, brilliant white, and splashes of aqua and blue. Sleek and refined, the decor captures the light, spirit and space of the Aegean, without falling back upon the old taverna tropes that lesser restaurants tend to embrace. Staff are attentive, welcoming, and willing and able to explain the more unfamiliar items on the menu. They instinctively seem to know when you need more time, more wine, more cutlery, or another peek at the dessert menu.
A taste of the Aegean. Author image.
Another thing I liked about
Stavros the Greek was that it is set up to accommodate different budgets and moods. You can turn up for a casual
yiros and beer, or you can sample the dips (including
taramasalata,
tzatziki, and almond
skordolia) with charred pita bread before moving onto shared
meze plates (including mixed olives, seared
haloumi with lemon, and white anchovies with salsa verde) and mains. There is even a banquet option incorporating slow cooked lamb shoulder and a heirloom Greek salad for those with big appetites. Fancy more of a drink with nibbles? Head on over to Sunset, an adjoining informal bar, with an aperitif menu featuring Greek wines, cocktails and a 'pick your own love potion' gin and tonic menu.
Char-grilled sardines. Author image.
opened in Kenmore in December 2017, just around the corner from owner Renata Roberts' two other standout venues,
Sichuan Bang Bang and
Pizzeria Violetta. It's open nightly from 5pm for dinner, and from 11am until 3pm on Sundays. We went for Sunday lunch, and observed family groups, canoodling couples and gatherings of friends (of all ages) among our fellow diners. It just goes to show that there's a big fat Greek welcome available for everyone here.
Hand made vanilla ice cream. Author image.
