Solitary Islands Coastal Walk

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The Solitary Islands Coastal Walk is a beautiful 60-kilometre hike along the NSW coastline from Red Rock in the north to Sawtell in the south. I was very lucky to enjoy the walk on a recent trip. The walk passes through gorgeous golden beaches, rocky headlands and lush rainforests along the Coffs Coast. Some people do the walk from South to North, but our group went from North to South.



The track follows the coast, with the majority of walking on the beach, a bit of easy rock scrambling, and a few sections of bush track. When planning the walk, you need to check on the tides, as there are some areas where you need to cross creeks and river mouths so you need to do it on low tide. It is also easier to walk along the beach at low tide too.



In whale watching season, walkers can watch whales offshore. We missed the whales on our trip but did see lots of sea birds, including pied oystercatchers and terns.



Eight of us left Brisbane and drove to Red Rock in two cars, stopping along the way at The Point café in Lennox Head for lunch.

We had been warned to waterproof our packs and be prepared to walk through creeks to waist deep. We planned to camp in caravan parks along the way, so we needed tents and sleeping bags. We only needed to carry food for breakfasts and lunches for four days as we went out for dinner every night in the small towns along the way.



After arriving at the Red Rock Holiday Park we set up our tents, then went for a walk down to the beach and around the headland. We then headed out to the local bowling club for dinner. I lost my head torch somewhere on the way to the club, so if anyone finds a blue head torch down that way please let me know. Luckily I had my phone torch and solar lucci light to use for the rest of the trip.



After a good night's sleep, we got up early and headed off for our longest day, a walk of around 18.5 kilometres to Woolgoolga. We were booked into the Woolgoolga Beach Holiday Park.



It was hard in some areas walking on soft sand, up and around headlands.

After setting up camp, and having the luxury of a hot shower and a rest, we went out for dinner. We had planned to go to the Woolgoolga RSL, but they wouldn't let us in because some of us didn't have photo IDs so we walked up a hill to the Tavern where we all enjoyed our meal and drinks.



It was pretty luxurious having a shower and going out for dinner on a bush walk. Usually, we have to make do with no shower or toilets, and a dehydrated meal at the campsite. I slept well in my tent every night. Some of the others didn't sleep so well. One woman's mattress deflated and birds chattering in the pine trees at the campground kept some of the others awake.

Every morning we got up early and packed up to begin the next day's walk.



On day 2, we left at 7 am and walked 15.5 kilometres to Moonee Beach. We hiked along long deserted beaches and around headlands and bays. We passed kangaroos feeding along the cliff tops at the "Look at Me Now" Headland and had views of South Solitary Island and its lighthouse and deserted Moonee Beach. We crossed Moonee Creek.



We walked through the Moonee Beach Nature Reserve. I can't remember which day it was, but one day we saw horses galloping along the beach. It was a wonderful sight, especially for Michelle who is a horse rider.



We had to take our shoes off for some of the creek crossings. The Moonee Beach crossing was fairly deep. We walked up to the top of our thighs in water, helping each other along and trying to avoid the deep holes in the sand.



We spent our third night at the Moonee Beach Holiday Park.
Four of us went out to dinner at the Tavern via their courtesy bus. The others stayed at the campsite on the beach and bought wood-fired pizzas from some enterprising people on the beach.



The whole Solitary Island walking track follows the coast. A lot of the walking was on the beach, but sometimes we did have to scramble around rocky headlands and go on bush tracks.
Occasionally we had to do some road walking through the small towns. The walk was well signposted with the lighthouse sign.
There were often steps to negotiate up off the beach, and back down onto the beach in other places.



Some of the bottom steps were a very big step up from the beach, probably due to erosion. We had to help each other up to the bottom step in these places.



After another relaxing night and an early night, we set out on our third day from Moonee Beach to Coffs Harbour. We discovered the pedestrian bridge was out of order. We had planned to wade across the river, but the tide was in and it was too deep to wade across through the mangroves.



There was an alternative route which involved walking around through town for four kilometres. While we were deciding what to do a local fisherman came along and offered to drive us all around the obstruction to the other side. We were very grateful to Lawrie. He wouldn't accept any money and took the eight of us and our full packs in two trips of four.
He saved us a long, hot walk and we were all very grateful.



Most of the locals we met along our walk were very helpful and friendly. One woman offered for us to use her toilet if we wanted and many chatted and asked us what we were doing and gave us local information about the area. We didn't meet any other walkers doing the whole trek.



We only met one man who was suspicious and asked us if we knew one of the beaches was a private beach, and told us there was no camping on any of the beaches. We reassured him we were staying in caravan parks, and we hadn't gone onto the "private beach" as we had walked on the designated Solitary Islands trail around the headlands in that area.



It was easy to follow the well marked "Solitary Islands Lighthouse' signs. Sometimes, the track left the beaches and headlands and led through houses and laneways, but always headed back to the beach.



Our walk each day was becoming shorter. On our third day we walked from Moonee Beach to the Big 4 Park Coffs Harbour, Beach Holiday Park, a distance of around 14.4 kilometres. Some of the Holiday Parks did require photo ID. We only needed it for one person out of two on a two person camping site, so we managed, but it is something to be aware of if you are doing this walk and plan to stay in the camping/caravan parks. I was lucky I had a photo of my passport on my phone, which I could use. I hadn't taken my driver's license because I wasn't driving.



After setting up camp, and having a shower, a few of us went to explore the town. We had lunch in town, and then walked out to Mutton Bird Island. I grew up in Tasmania and knew about mutton-birds down there and on the offshore Bass Strait islands, but I didn't realize mutton-birds also lived and bred in Queensland. My parents used to buy them in the butcher's shop and eat them, but I remember them saying they were very oily. I'm glad the birds are protected these days.





I saw a beautiful black-shouldered kite on the Island. The views from the end of the Island were spectacular with the blowholes. It felt like the edge of the world. On the way back to camp, we enjoyed an icecream on the Marina.





We had dinner that night at Element Bar, which was delicious. I had the best burger I have ever had there. It was a large chicken burger, with avocado, pineapple, tomato, lettuce, cheese and sauce.



On our final days walk, we walked from Coffs Harbour to Sawtell. It was only about 14 kilometres, but very interesting. We crossed bridges and walked across the headland with beautiful views back to the way we had come. It was sad our walk was coming to an end.





We spent our last night at the Big 4 Sawtell Beach Holiday Park before catching our pre arranged maxi taxi back to our cars early the following morning after breakfast at the Split Cafe. We ate out that night at the Sawtell Hotel. We went to sleep to the sound of the waves. Greg, our walk leader had done a fabulous job organizing all our accommodation and the taxi.



Back at the cars at Red Rock, I had a quick look for my torch, but didn't find it. I'm sure some local probably picked it up and wouldn't know who it belonged to. We stopped off for an early lunch on the way home again at the Point Café in Lennox Head. We all had a wonderful time and I can really recommend this walk. People with a reasonable level of fitness and lightweight overnight camping gear could do it.



It was a fabulous walk, although some parts were tiring slogging along through loose, coarse sand, and pebbly beaches. Several walkers got blisters and sore feet. At least our packs got lighter as we walked, although not having to carry food for dinners helped too. As we walked along we could see the Solitary Islands offshore.



We were very lucky and had great mild weather and no rain. It would be great to do this walk in whale watching season. You do need to check the tides so you can get easier access to creek crossings at Arrawarra and Moonee Creeks, and around rocks on Campbells Beach.



The trip was very scenic with beautiful bays and headlands, beaches and great camping and good facilities. We probably walked about 65 kilometres including some extra bits. It is a great walk, so if you get the opportunity to go, you should do it.



[LINK=https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/walking-tracks/solitary-islands-coastal-walk]

There were many highlights on the trip. I loved seeing the three Eastern Grey Kangaroos on the "Look at Me Now Headland" and all the beautiful beaches, headlands, islands and views. The company was great too.



#beaches
#health-fitness
#nature
#northern-nsw
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