River Torrens City Walk

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As Spring approaches with the promise of finer weather and nature's renewal, we are spoilt for choice with walking trails around Adelaide, and one that is within arm's reach of the city is the linear trail along the banks of the River Torrens.



Background
The River Torrens has been since the early days of both indigenous and white settlement, the life-blood of the Adelaide Plains. Its Kaurna name is KarraWirra Parri, translating to "River of the Red Gum Forest" and flows for a length of approximately 85 kilometres, from its source in the Adelaide Hills, near Mount Pleasant, across the Adelaide Plains past the city of Adelaide and emptying into Gulf St Vincent between Henley Beach South and West Beach.

The section this article covers is from the weir, near Adelaide Gaol, up to Adelaide Zoo, all part of what is known as the Torrens Lake. Here are 9 highlights I discovered along this route on a sunny blue-sky winter's day.

1. Weir and Adelaide Gaol.
In 1867 prison labour from Adelaide Gaol was engaged to erect a wooden dam near the site of the current weir. Being poorly constructed, it was soon after that the river washed it away, leading to a more solid construction occurring in 1880, made of concrete.

The weir was eventually rebuilt from 1928 until 1929 due to a major flooding occurring in 1889 which had damaged the original weir.

Nearby is Adelaide Gaol, remaining one of the oldest colonial public buildings in Adelaide, dating from 1840. According to Edward Gibbon Wakefield, the Father of our Systematic Colonisation Scheme, we weren't going to need a police force, gaols or justice systems, as he had this utopian dream of no crime and no poverty. In the first 16 months of white settlement, none of this infrastructure existed, as the belief was that middle-class/wealthy immigrants would never dream of committing a crime! Things changed in South Australia's society which led to the formalisation of a justice system, even though we were always a non-penal colony.

Did you know that the last capital punishment event in South Australia occurred in 1964, via a hanging of a man, Glen Valance, accused of murdering his employer and raping the employer's wife? The only woman ever hanged in Adelaide Gaol and in South Australia was Elizabeth Woolcock, accused of mercury poisoning her husband, with the final sentence being carried out in 1873. To this day, this is still conjecture as to whether Elizabeth was unfairly tried and convicted.
Capital Punishment was finally outlawed in Australia in 1967 after the hanging of Ronald Ryan.

The gaol finally closed as a working prison in 1988, but today there is ongoing capacity to visit the old Gaol, for either self-guided tours or guided tours including ghost crime tours and other events. Check their website for tour options and prices.



2. Bonython Park

Bonython Park is a 17-hectare park in the north-west Parklands and was opened in 1962, named in honour of prominent South Australian Politician and Journalist, Sir John Langdon Bonython, and it forms part of what is known as Park 27, or it's Kaurna name, Tulya Wardli, meaning "Soldier House".

You will notice on your stroll through this area some of the more natural river embankment growths, including banks of reeds which are important for wildlife. Originally the banks were lined with native vegetation, and although some still exist to this day, other species of flora have been introduced. However, you will still notice less dense Eucalypts, including River Red Gum, Blue Gum, Sheoaks, Native Cherry, Native Pine as well as the well-recognised Golden Wattle.



3. Recreational Pursuits

Along the banks of the Torrens, numerous options await for recreation in and around the River environs. You can't go past the iconic Popeye boat cruise, which operates all year around, apart from August when they have some downtime. Cruises will be available again from September and include 45-minute sightseeing cruises from $17 for children, $22 for concession and $26 per adult, Devonshire Tea 45-minute cruises from $30, as well as High Tea 90-minute cruises from $95 and even Gin Cruises, which run for 90 minutes. A great way to view the city from a completely different aspect.

If you would like a bit more strenuous activity, then maybe a paddleboat hire might be the way to go! These pedal-powered boats have been on the Adelaide scene even way back in 1881. Today they are available for hire on weekends, public holidays and school holidays, weather permitting, from 11 am. Like Popeye, during August the paddle boats are not operating but will be available again come September. Paddle boats are for hire for $25 during the season.

The ultimate summer experience is to hire an inflatable buoy and float calmly down the River whilst enjoying a BBQ with friends and family. BBQ Buoys have been operating since 2020, run by the same people as Popeye and the Paddle Boats and can be hired for different size groups, including a maximum of 2 people, maximum of 6 people or a maximum of 10 people.

The size of the group will determine the cost, which is based on a 2-hour experience - for a maximum of 2 people, the cost is $190, for 6 people, from $270 and for 10 people, from $350. You can either BYO your preferred food and beverages, or you can tailor a package organised by BBQ Buoys. The buoys operate from Pinky Flat, on the northern bank of the river, near Adelaide Oval. Further details can be obtained from their website.



4. Elder Park

The sloping banks of Elder Park are a wonderful backdrop to the River Torrens landscape, with many events held there over the course of the Adelaide events calendar, including OzAsia Festival, Carols by Candlelight, Australia Day celebrations, Adelaide Festival of Arts events etc.

The area historically was one of the significant places for the Kaurna people, being able to fish, draw water and sustain an existence along the river banks. During our colonial history, this area was known as the"Governor's Garden", attached to Government House, where the Governor could obtain fresh vegetables for his table.

A former Lord Mayor of Adelaide, Sir Edwin Thomas Smith was responsible for beautifying parts of the city including a vision for the Torrens Lake and in 1879, he was instrumental in Adelaide City Council gaining control of reserve land with a long frontage to the Torrens - present day Elder Park!

One of the iconic structures within the Park is the Elder Park Rotunda, made in Glasgow and shipped from London in 1882. It is constructed with decorative wrought iron and a zinc roof, named after Sir Thomas Elder, a Scottish immigrant who was instrumental in donating through philanthropy monies to set up the first stand-alone Art Gallery in 1900 as well as contributing to the music program at the University of Adelaide (now known as the Elder Conservatorium of Music).



5. Art Work

Various sculptures and art pieces adorn the area surrounding the River Torrens precinct, many of them eye-catching.

In the centre of the Torrens Lake, near Elder Park lies the sculptures representing paper boats, entitled "Talking Our Way Home," the artist being Shaun Kirby. The origami-like boats are inscribed with text from letters written to loved ones both by 19th and 20th-century migrants.

The artwork also tells of the history of Adelaide, of Indigenous culture and history dispossessed, as well as of migrants travelling thousands of for the uncertainty of life in a new country.

Another piece called "Tribute" dates from 2005 and was crafted by Bert Flugelman (the same artist who sculptured the "Mall's Balls". This sculpture which is located on the river banks near Festival Theatre is dedicated to Richard Llewellyn AM, a pioneering champion of disability rights and access. Richard's valuable contribution to the Arts in South Australia as well as to people with disabilities is important and recognised.

There is also a dedicated memorial to a Kaurna woman by the name of Doris Graham, who always held onto a hope that Aboriginal people and white people "would walk together". This memorial can be found also near the Festival Theatre and Convention Centre precinct.



6. Adelaide Oval

Adelaide Oval is another of our icons and major landmarks, dating right back to the 1870s, the home of AFL matches as well as Cricket and music concert events.

Since its major redevelopment in 2013/2014, it has a capacity for around 54,000 spectators.

Within the complex, apart from game days and concerts, there is the opportunity to explore the free Donald Bradman Exhibition, an amazing collection of memorabilia regarding outstanding Australian cricketer, Don Bradman.

If adrenaline is your thing, then the gravity-defying RoofClimb is well worth the effort. The Roof Climbs are conducted either during the daytime, twilight or at night, and for daytime roof climbs it will set you back per adult $115 for a 2-hour experience.

Tour guides also give people the opportunity to do a stadium tour which is $28 per adult for a 90-minute experience. This includes the chance to go in behind the iconic wooden scoreboard which dates from 1911.



7. Adelaide Zoo

If your passion is animals and their conservation, then a visit to Adelaide Zoo is a must. Being the second oldest Zoo in Australia (Melbourne being the oldest), it dates from 1883, and when originally opened, contained only 37 mammals, 1 reptile and 36 bird species.

Today it contains more than 2,500 animals and 250 species of mammals, birds, reptiles and fish in 8 hectares of botanic surroundings.

Apart from the opportunity to visit the giant Pandas, Wang Wang and Fu Ni (who will be returning to China in the coming months), there is plenty for all ages to see, including feeding times for various species.

You can also book a more personal upfront experience with some of the animals including VIP Panda, which gives you a close-up look at both the giant Pandas as well as the Red Pandas. For a non-member, this will set you back $595 for 1 hour and 15 minutes with a maximum group of 6.

Other experiences include Giraffe Feed, Meerkat Encounter, Pygmy Hippo Lunchtime and Kangaroo and Wallaby Encounter. A great way to learn so much more about these amazing animals.



8. Bridges
It's hard to imagine that at one time the River Torrens was once a much more wild and untamed river with ongoing problems occurring with flooding and pollution. In the early years attempts to straddle a bridge across the river proved fruitless in many cases, as heavy rains simply destroyed any early wooden structures.

Prior to bridges, there were fords, which were deemed almost impossible to cross should there be heavy rains and flooding. The first bridge across the Torrens was believed to be a simple wooden structure in 1839, about 500 metres west of the current City Bridge across King William Road.

After being destroyed by floods in 1844, in 1849 6,000 pounds was allocated to build more structures. Within 4 years, 3 wooden bridges had been built and subsequently destroyed in floods.

The bridge which carries Frome Road across the river, near the Adelaide Zoo was originally of timber construction in 1859 and was named the Old Frome Bridge.

The current bridge, named the Albert Bridge, was named after Queen Victoria's consort Prince Albert and was opened in 1879, having been manufactured in England of wrought iron. The concrete deck was originally wood, having been upgraded in 1922.

The Coat of Arms on the inside of the bridge displays the City of Adelaide's motto, "Ut Prosint Omnibus Conjuncti" meaning "united for the common good".

The footbridge connecting the Adelaide Railway Station to Adelaide Oval cost a massive $AUD 40 million and was completed in March 2014 at around the same time as the completion of the redeveloped Adelaide Oval.

It spans a total distance of 255 metres.

The University footbridge has been around since 1937, when it was constructed, having been delayed due to the effects of the Great Depression.

The City Bridge which crosses King William Road, started its life as an iron bridge in 1856, which was then widened in 1877 and converted into a two-lane bridge in 1884.

This bridge was duly replaced in 1931 as a more solid concrete structure, which is the one we view today.

Finally, the Victoria Bridge extends from Morphett Street and crosses the rail lines from the Adelaide Railway Station, and the river. The original bridge, which came out from England dated from 1871, and after several different bridges were built over the years, the current one dates from 1968. The Victoria Bridge was designed without a central pillar in the river so that three lanes of rowers can compete without interference.



9. Cafes
Strolling along the banks of the River Torrens will make you build up a thirst as well as a hankering for something to fill the belly. Lined along the linear trail are numerous options of cafes and eateries for you to indulge in.

Adjacent to Bonython Park lies, for example Cafe Bonython, with magic views across the River Torrens. It attracts walkers, joggers, cyclists and all ranges of ages, and is open 7 days a week. Hours of trading are from 9.30 am to 2 pm. They are open every day except Christmas Day and New Year's Day.

Lounder's historic boatshed cafe, adjacent to Victoria Drive also offers great views of the river bank precinct and is housed in a historic 1913 boat shed. Trading hours are Wednesday to Friday 8 am - 3 pm, and Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays, 8 am to 4 pm. (apart from Christmas Day and Boxing Day). Be aware that if you drop in for a coffee only to have on the premises, on weekends and public holidays there is a 30 minute maximum sitting time, and for dining 90 minutes.

If you are looking for much finer dining, then you can't go past Jolley's Boathouse, located on the southern side of the river, adjacent to the City Bridge (King William Road).

Jolley's Boathouse started its life as a tea room in 1913 and following its run-down state in the late 1980s as a kiosk, a fresh start occurred, which developed it into a well-respected restaurant.

Main courses range in price from $36 to $60 and include succulent dishes such as SA Snapper, Mussels, Scallops, Roasted Fennel and Sauce Bouillabaise, as well as Rump Steak with Diane Butter and Beef Jus.

Jolley's is open for lunch on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday, The restaurant is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

There are many more options along the River Torrens, including the River Cafe and the Red Ochre Restaurant near the Weir, as well as the Riverbank precinct near Festival Theatre and the Adelaide Railway Station. Check out their websites for further details. Also adjacent to these restaurants/cafes is the Par 3 cafe, a more casual eatery.



A stroll along the River Torrens in the city can obviously reveal so many experiences to savour and enjoy. At the same time, the linear trails give you a chance to gather some fresh air and exercise.
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