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Mundaring Hotel

Home > Perth > Food and Wine | Historic Houses | Hotels | Restaurants
by Peter Hancock (subscribe)
Journalist, historian and naturalist living in Perth's eastern suburbs.
Published December 17th 2018
Rejuvenated hills landmark offers exciting new dining option
If you're on the lookout for a fresh and delectable dining experience in welcoming historical surrounds, then head for the Hills and the new-look Mundaring Hotel.

Recently taken over by the team who have made the Parkerville Tavern one of the Hills' most recognised and well-loved entertainment landmarks, the Mundaring Hotel has been tastefully rejuvenated and enters its 120th year with a new lease on life – as well as an exquisite new lunch and dinner menu.

My wife and I took the pleasant 40-minute drive there for lunch and were immediately impressed when we pulled up outside the stately white building and took in its shaded beer garden, wide lawn and children's playground beneath the spreading jacaranda trees.

Mundaring Hotel, fine dining, pub food, historic hotel, Parkerville Tavern, restaurant, fine wine, food, dog friendly, live music, playground
The iconic Mundaring Hotel has new owners and a brand new menu.

Nestled in its corner site since 1899, the hotel looked as if it belonged there, and beckoned us in with the promise of its cool wide verandas – as it has generations of visitors and Hills' residents alike.

Inside, the high ceilings, Victorian-era wood panelling and decorative plasterwork have been retained but given a refreshing facelift that brings light and space into the building, with historical photos embellishing the walls.

The restaurant, overlooking the scenic bushland of Sculpture Park, is spacious and welcoming, and our friendly waitpersons, Sonia and Celia, spared no effort in making sure we were comfortable and well looked after, without being intrusive.

We took a table for two at the window, with a view across the veranda and road to the leafy park beyond, and admired the colourful photographic prints of eagles and other birds of prey that adorn the restaurant walls, while we browsed the menu.

Mundaring Hotel, fine dining, pub food, historic hotel, Parkerville Tavern, restaurant, fine wine, food, dog friendly, live music, playground
Chef Max Vincent Mussoodee applies French colonial flair to his unique and tasty dishes.

Part of the Mundaring Hotel's renovation included a new kitchen – and a new chef with an artistic flair for creating unique and delicious culinary experiences.

That chef is Max Vincent Mussoodee, whose training in fine dining establishments on his home island of Mauritius has produced a unique cosmopolitan flavour to his dishes.

"Mauritian cuisine largely reflects the country's French colonial roots but, because it is at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean, there are many other cultural influences there as well, and I've drawn on all of those to create my menus," Chef Vincent told us later.

Ten years ago, he moved to Melbourne to work for the Rivers Group before he was recruited by Parkerville Tavern owners Thomas and Anthea Martin and Ian and Joanne O'Connor as the Parkerville's sous chef, working alongside head chef Sheridan Noakes. Now he's brought his mouth-watering offerings to The Mundaring Hotel – and they're irresistible.

Mundaring Hotel, fine dining, pub food, historic hotel, Parkerville Tavern, restaurant, fine wine, food, dog friendly, live music, playground
The blue swimmer bisque was beautifully presented and full of rich crab flavours.

In anticipation of a sumptuous main course, my wife and I chose to share a serve of homemade WA blue swimmer crab bisque – a smooth tomato broth made with fresh crab, blended aromatic vegetables, cognac and cream – as an entrée. Served promptly on a wooden platter with a long crusty roll, the bisque's aroma had us hooked before we even wet a spoon, and the flavour did not disappoint. Somehow chef Vincent had used the vegetables' flavours to subtly enhance rather than hide the unique sweet taste of the blue swimmers, bringing back memories of lazy nights crabbing at the Mandurah estuary.

Other light meals on offer included chef Vincent's unique take on pub classics such as homemade lamb burger, cheeseburger, steak burger and BLT, or you can choose to start your meal with a selection from the comprehensive selection of sharing dishes such as the Big Old House Plank (chook wings, barbecue pork ribs and lamb skewers with caramelised onion relish and garlic and mint yoghurt dipping sauce); Margaret River venison chorizo mini cassoulet with French loaf; and homemade mushroom and sun-dried tomato arancini balls.

After pondering over the main course, we decided to find out what flavours were inspiring chef Vincent that day and opted to sample two of his blackboard specials rather than choose from the menu.

My wife stuck with the seafood theme and ordered the grilled barramundi served with ginger and coconut rice, Thai green vegetables, cherry tomatoes, tempura bok choy and crispy noodles. Always a sucker for a good poultry dish, I chose the seared duck breast with mushroom, sun-dried tomato and spinach risotto.

Mundaring Hotel, fine dining, pub food, historic hotel, Parkerville Tavern, restaurant, fine wine, food, dog friendly, live music, playground
The grilled barramundi delivered on its promise of contrasting textures and fantastic fish.

When it comes to presentation, chef Vincent is an artist. The barramundi dish was arranged and displayed so that the texture of each part was illustrated and, as a result, anticipated before being eaten. The generous portion of barramundi was cooked to perfection, with the crispy skin crunching into the sweet fish beneath, while the vegetables, tempura bok choy and noodles, my wife reported, perfectly complemented the star ingredient.

My duck was just as impressive and delicious. Crisp-skinned and succulent, the thick juicy slices lay atop a rich fragrant risotto that all but melted in my mouth. For ten wonderful minutes, I thought of nothing but the food in front of me. Never under estimate the inspiration behind a chef's daily special.

Mundaring Hotel, fine dining, pub food, historic hotel, Parkerville Tavern, restaurant, fine wine, food, dog friendly, live music, playground
Chef Vincent's seared duck breast was faultless and flavoursome.

If I would have opted for a main meal from the menu I would have selected from such dishes as slow roasted Amelia Park lamb shoulder with vine-ripe tomatoes, creamy mash, seasonal vegetables, mint jelly and jus; homemade beef cheeks pie – slow cooked braised beef cheeks in port wine with vegetables and puff pastry served with chips and salad; and homemade curry of the day. There are also some great steak, seafood and vegan dishes.

Unfortunately, we were so satisfied with our entrée and main that we passed on dessert, although the crème caramel was hard to resist. Dessert dishes also included cinnamon sugar churros with salted caramel sauce and ice cream; and lemon tart with ice cream and cream.

To go with the cuisine there is a comprehensive and extensive wine list, a plethora of tap and bottled beer and the enticing Summer Cocktails list, which features such delights as Strawberry Gin Mash, a heady mix of rum, ginger beer and lime.

There is no doubt that word of the Mundaring Hotel's exciting new dining experience, featuring not only fantastic and inventive dishes, but also pub classics produced in a refreshing new culinary style, will spread far and wide very quickly.

The Mundaring Hotel is on the corner of Nichol and Jacoby streets in Mundaring and is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. To reserve a table phone 9295 1006 or book online at
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Why? Enjoy exquisite dining in a refreshing historical setting
When: Seven days a week
Phone: 9295 1006
Where: Mundaring Hotel, Nichol Street, Mundaring 6073
Your Comment
This place looks the goods. Well done on the whole 'flavour' of the article. Thank you!
by Michael Genrich (score: 3|1862) 1334 days ago
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