It's bigger than it looks!
At the precise geographical centre of Mexico City stands the largest and oldest church in Latin America – Catedral Metropolitana.
As you stand beneath this stunning monstrosity, a slight twinge in your neck from the extreme angle it takes for your eyes to be able to appreciate the full vista, you have a choice to make.
Walk to your left, and you will find rooftop restaurants with stunning views, and a statue that's oddly psychedelic given its Catholic subject matter.
Psychedelic Pope statue: made of melted keys, with a Jesus staff and the virgin Mary for a body
Walk to your right, and you will find what remains of Templo Mayor, the temple that once dominated Mexico City, back when it was called Tenochtitlan and the natives had no idea of about the colonising force that was destined to descend upon them.
Walk straight ahead, and you will find yourself ensconced in the internal workings of this strangely powerful building. Regardless of the spiritual beliefs you hold, there's no denying the captivating magnitude of this place. More than once you will catch yourself with your mouth hanging open as you stare in wonder at the intricate carvings and colossal works of art.
A rather saucy statue at the entrance to the cathedral
To head into the belly of the beast – the catacombs that lie beneath it – will set you back just 40 pesos. For this price, you also get a guided tour, without which there are a few secrets you would never learn. However, the tour is not always open, and it can be hard to get a precise answer as to when the next one will be. So, if you arrive, and there's one about to go – consider yourself blessed and take it.
Altar of the Kings
Before diving in, you will be taken past the Altar of the Kings where you will learn that the new guy who took over the carving job in 1737 wasn't so good at making realistic hands. You can see this as a blight on an otherwise stunning creation, or you can just enjoy spotting the oversized and awkward hands that were his signature.
Not the best handiwork
From here, you will be led into the church's underworld – a maze constructed of the final resting places of many a devout Catholic. Photographs are forbidden in these halls. It's only when you arrive at a room directly below the Alltar of the Kings that you can resume your obsessive picture-taking (if that's your thing).
The ever-vigilant guardians of the catacombs
This space is guarded by two ghostly monks whose hollow eyes are always on you, no matter where you wander. Around you lie the remains of 41 Archbishops, some centuries old, others entombed as recently as 1998.
The remains of an Archbishop and one of the long catacomb hallways stretching into the darkness
As with so many places in Mexico, native beleifs and creations have been subsumed by the European-Catholic influence but are still apparent. There are some beautiful pre-Hispanic sculptures in this room. However, Jesus is the undeniable centrepiece.
The centre of the catacombs
If you hear strange whisperings, feel free to enjoy a delicious chill of fear as you wonder where the hushed voices are coming from. But do keep in mind, there are people walking about in the church above, and their voices travel.
Also, be sure to take a moment to stand at the dead centre of Mexico City and appreciate the vast history stretching out from all angles around you.
The dead centre of Mexico City (literally and figuratively)
