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Mandoon Estate

Home > Perth > Fine Dining | Food and Wine | Lunch | Restaurants | Wineries
by Douglas Sutherland-Bruce (subscribe)
Douglas has been a professional food writer since 1986. He is also an award-winning actor and director in Community Theatre and has been for many years. His blog may be found at:
Published January 9th 2017
A sprawling estate devoted to the pleasures of the table
One of the joys of being a food writer and reasonably well-known is that you get a lot of delightful suggestions about where to dine to get a good meal (and occasionally a bad one - people can be odd sometimes).

One of the places that has been recommended to me several times over the last few months is Mandoon Estate, so I was keen when taking lunch with a very old friend to suggest Mandoon, about which all I knew was 'It's great'.

And 'great' it most certainly is, although the word that most readily springs to mind is 'professionalism'.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
Mandoon Estate Beer Garden (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

Mandoon Estate, which you get to by going past Bandyup and under Reid Highway, is actually not so much one thing as several. A Beer Garden and Deli, a winery and cellar door sales, an Art Gallery, Homestead Brewery bistro and a very sophisticated fine dining restaurant.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
The dining hall at Mandoon Estate (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

It was this last that we took lunch on a hot weekday, although every section of the estate was busy, even on a weekday.

Every area is superbly upkept. Immaculate, emerald green lawns neatly trimmed, row upon row of fecund leafy grape vines, cleanly varnished outdoor Jarrah, plashy fountains and inside, crisp white napery, charming efficient servers and a menu of polished tribute to the power of good food prepared under the aegis of Executive Chef Michael Hartnell.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
The fountainat the entrance to the restaurant (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

Your choices are either a five ($130) or seven ($140) course degustation meal - each course partnered with an appropriate wine or the a la cartÚ menu.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
Marron tail (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

We ate off the a la cartÚ, and we each took entreÚ, Tony's choice being the Marron tail, cauliflower pureÚ and seaweed with funori ($29), a glutinous gum extracted from seaweed.

My own selection was White Rocks veal, very thinly sliced carpaccio style with tuna and served with capers and anchovy and 'cooked' in lemon juice in the ceviche manner ($20).

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
White Rocks veal (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

It was just magnificent, rich and tasty, cleanly, elegantly balanced between flavours and textures.

We accompanied this with the server's suggestion - a charming Canadian girl - of the Mandoon Verdelho, acidic rather than sweet and perfect for the food. I do like it when servers make suggestions when asked. I think it shows they care about what they do and indicates a level of pride and engagement.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
Lamb rump (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

My main, also her suggestion, to help break the agony of indecision, was baldly described as 'Lamb rump, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, gratin, mint' ($38).

It was perfection, the lamb sublimely seasoned and cooked, served with a clear mint sauce with tiny flecks of green like gold leaf in Flaschengeist wine. Beautiful and jewel-like.

Tony's main course was a warm duck salad ($41) of crisp skinned duck breast with endive, broccolini, sherry, nectarine and pastilla; which in theory should conflict, but in fact blended with an elegant simplicity into a perfect whole.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
Duck salad (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

Sweet course ($16) for me was ice cream, of which I am particularly fond, a Cherry, vermouth, hazelnut and roast almond flavour of considerable charm.

But Tony's was truly spectacular, being a Lavender cloud, frozen in liquid nitrogen and so served wreathed in clouds.

Mandoon Estate, Wine, Fine dining, Swan Valley, Homestead Brewery
Lavender cloud (Photograph by D Sutherland-Bruce)

After coffee we took a turn around the extensive grounds and facilities, determining to return to try the rest.

Superb food, excellent service, value for money and magnificent surroundings.

Very Highly Recommended Indeed.
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Why? Amazingly good food, excellent service
When: Various - see website
Phone: 6279 0500
Where: 10 Harris Road, Caversham
Cost: $90 to $120
Your Comment
What a wonderful find, Douglas - the area is stunning and the food looks totally delectable!
by Elaine (score: 3|7418) 1300 days ago
That lavender cloud looks brilliant! Well written article Douglas
by Brooke. A. R (score: 2|405) 1300 days ago
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