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The Gardens at Le Petit Trianon

Home > Paris > Day Trips | Gardens | Walks
by Cressida Ryan (subscribe)
Classicist and traveller
Published December 28th 2014
Intricate and fascinating gardens surround Le Petit Trianon, Marie-Antoinette's getaway; even if you don't bother with the house itself, they are a wonderful space. There are several wings to the gardens, whose variety give you plenty to explore.

Maps are available both as permanent posters and as handy leaflets, and it is wise to spend a few moments orientating yourself. Heading towards the orangerie you stumble across one of the most bizarre features of the garden, a rock. Adding monumental rugged charm in keeping with an eighteenth century aesthetic of the sublime, it adds interest to a modern walk.

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Belvedere and rock


Over to one side is the Belvedere, a small pavilion built in the late 1770s. It has a pool at its base, and offers fantastic views of the gardens and house.

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Belvedere from a distance


Over to one side is 'le hameau', or the Queen's hamlet. In keeping with Rousseau's ideas of the noble savage, Marie-Antoinette maintained a small farm where she could play at being a peasant. It is still maintained as a farm where children can pet the animals. The rustic charm is in sharp contrast with the overblown grandeur of the rest of the estate. Built in 1783, it only just predates the 1789 revolution and demonstrates how far from the reality of French peasant life the aristocracy was as they recreated it for their own recreation.

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the hamlet


The grounds are extensive, and peppered with benches to stop at. They're often found in unexpected corners, with interesting views, giving visitors the chance to enjoy the scenery.

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A bench to relax on!


Visible from Marie-Antoinette's bedroom, the Temple of Venus stands proud in the centre of the gardens. Built in 1780, by Mique, it represents the Neo-Classical and romantic atmosphere of the place.

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Temple of Venus


You can see the temple from many spots in the garden, orientating you in the intricate space. The gardens are so carefully designed that none of this is accidental. Marie-Antointte choreographed her life as far as palace strictures allowed.

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The temple at a distance


The gardens themselves are beautiful, with a wide variety of plants responding to the seasons in various ways. Around the temple is a landscaped garden, while round the back is Jussieu's garden, a different style commissioned by the emperor. These photographs were all taken in autumn, in all its colourful glory.

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The gardens in autumn splendour


The house is visible from a range of points in the gardens, with each side representing a different architectural style.

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The house from the garden


On the route between Le Petit Trianon and Le Grand Trianon lies a French garden. Here is the Queen's chapel, as well as established beds and walkways. In the centre, in front of the French pavilion, is set a fountain with yet another carefully sculpted cherubic centrepiece.

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fountain


Beaumarchais' play the Marriage of Figaro was banned, but Marie-Antoinette had her own private theatre here and was able to perform herself there. She enjoyed this aspect of dressing up and 'playing the other' as much as being the peasant in the hamlet. It also served as a minor act of rebellion against her husband's establishment. The theatre was built in 1777, also by Mique, and is sadly not always open to the public. Unassuming from the outside, the interior is far more intricate than one might expect. Further buildings include a Japanese pagoda and French pavilion.

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The French garden


Whatever kind of landscape you like, the gardens at Le Petit Trianon are likely to have it in miniature. They really give you a sense of the space as Marie-Antoinette's retreat, and as her attempt to bring the world to her since she could not go to the world.
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Where: Le Petit Trianon
Cost: free entry just to the gardens
Your Comment
I like the cherub statue.
by Bryony Harrison (score: 4|11845) 1269 days ago
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by Cressida Ryan on 29/12/2014
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