In fact, the more inexperienced the climbers, the more often will they summit on their first attempt. Its chance-taking due to unawareness of the dangers and of course it's very hazardous. You might get away once or twice with it, but it's nothing for the long-term climber.
Mountain climbers should be wary of bad weather can turn an easy, sunny climb into a horrible, fatal inferno. The change is often fast and unforgiving. Suddenly, you are blind, the wind freezes the blood in your veins, you can't think and you can't find your way anywhere! Instantly, you feel a deadly fear whilst your mind keeps falling into helpless dizziness.
You can take some guidance based on the rules of surviving when climbing Mount Everest. On prolonged climbs, bad weather might strike unexpectedly, contrary to forecasts of fine conditions. The mountain creates its own weather, impossible to predict by today's models and especially without a weather station on the summit. Trust forecasts for general weather system predictions, but always keep an eye on the mountain. Place fixed ropes everywhere possible. Bring a compass, provide for a security light in camp. Minimize the risk any way you can.
Don't hurry, clip in everywhere. At technical parts, fixed with old rope, clip into several lines at once. Almost yearly, climbers die in the Himalayas due to an old rope. Pull at the ropes before clipping in. Check the screws and the ropes at all times. Don't climb together with large numbers of climbers on one rope. High altitude health problems like headache, edema, frostbite, confusion and such are actually more often related to dehydration than lack of oxygen.
A lot of feelings, reactions and symptoms occur at altitude. For instance; going high causes your brain to lack oxygen. A brain short on oxygen reacts with depression. In the old ages, when people slept in four-poster beds hung with thick, velvety curtains, people lacked oxygen at night. It's the same phenomena. The brain reacts to oxygen deprivation by nightmares at night and bad moods during the day. The knowledge of different situations at altitude and your own reactions to them are important for your self-confidence and essential for survival.
That's why experience with altitude is so important prior to an Everest climb. Whilst there are some ways to read the snow, and various digging techniques for avalanche situations, there is really not much to do about it. Avoid climbs following heavy snowfalls. Especially on the Lhotse wall or the North wall. Climb swiftly past the dangerous parts, don't climb the icefall too late in the day, and well keep your fingers crossed.