Toodyay Freemasons Hotel

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Toodyay is a charming little country town not far from Perth, York or Northam.

It's the sort of quiet town where cars stop in the middle of the high street to chat to someone crossing the road; where everyone knows everyone and everyone is welcoming and kind.

It's almost a story-book town, with its history, Art Deco library, small shops and Federation buildings, homes and hotels.



One such is the Freemasons Hotel, where the potions are hearty, the floors ancient Jarrah and the service unpolished but friendly.

I dropped in for lunch recently and to be absolutely honest I wasn't expecting much. No matter how often the lesson is rammed home, one persists in judging books by their covers.

One orders from the counter and pays, wandering off with a number on a stick to wherever you'd like to dine. I chose the outside verandah where I could see the passing parade.

In a very short time my food arrived with a smile and a genuine 'Hope you enjoy', which as far as I am concerned is better than silver service from a waiter who despises you.

The menu is pretty big, with a selection of 'Starters', 'Something Light' and 'Mains' as well as the daily specials chalked on a board.

It was from here that I chose my entrée of 'Tomato, onion and bacon soup' ($12.50). This arrived looking like the wrath of God, but tasting like something the Angels elbow each other out of the way to get to. Absolutely delicious.



The flavours were strong, but melded together brilliantly. Each ingredient contributing to the whole, but not dominating with any one - the bacon was there as a base note, the tomato present and the herbs perfect in their balance. This came with two slices of excellent garlic bread and had my entire attention until the last drop.

If you just wanted something light for lunch, this would be a complete meal in itself.

I, however, entirely in your interest, dear reader, forced myself onwards to the main course of slow cooked lamb shank, mash and peas ($26.50).



As you can see, presentation is not the Freemason Hotel chef's strong point, but frankly, when your food is as good as this was, who cares?

The lamb, I'm assuming local, was deliciously tender, rich in flavour and dropped off the bone at a touch. The potatoes were roughly mashed, giving a rather nice texture and the peas were, well, peas.

The gravy, however, was something else again. As it arrived in a soup bowl I thought - 'Dear God, look at all that gravy'. Once I'd tasted it, I thought 'Damn, not enough gravy.'

The only change I would make to this dish is a couple of slices of bread so that one could avoid wasting any of the smears of gravy left in the bowl.

Had I not had the rudiments of good manners beaten into me as a child by my grandmother I swear I'd have licked the bowl clean.

And that brings me to an aspect of the meal that might not be immediately apparent. It is pure comfort food. Food that your granny probably prepared from recipes handed down to her from her granny.

There is plenty of modern, fashionable food on the menu - Greek Salad ($16.50); Steak Burger ($18.50); Souvlaki ($17.90); Chicken Parmagiana ($26) and a whole range of what are doubtless impeccable steaks, but it is the specials where the true, big, country heart shines through.

Comfort food is slightly disparagingly spoken of by critics as a rule, but to me it fulfils a large part of what food is all about.

When granny urges you to a third helping, she isn't wanting you to put on weight, she's saying 'I love you'. Food is a way of communicating one person's feelings to another.



The chef at Freemasons Hotel is saying 'I want you to be happy, contented, filled with good food and to share in my skill at preparing food.'

It is the very best sense of the word 'country' - warm, generous, welcoming and hospitable. For obvious reasons I was unable to have sweet course, although I have to say the 'Home made sticky date pudding with caramel sauce and ice cream' ($9.50) was incredibly tempting. Maybe next time.

Very highly recommended indeed.

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