Farmleigh House & Estate

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You Rang, M’Lord? - A Day at Farmleigh House during Heritage Week

Within the verdant embrace of Phoenix Park, Dublin, Farmleigh House stands as a captivating testament to Ireland's rich history. Our visit during Ireland’s Heritage Week was enhanced by an engaging live theater performance, You Rang, M’Lord? – The Life of a Victorian Servant, which transformed the historic estate into a vibrant stage of the past.

Arrival at Farmleigh
Knowing all too well the challenges of navigating Phoenix Park without a car, we opted for the comfort of a taxi from my apartment in central Dublin. In about 25 minutes, we were ushered through the gates of the Farmleigh complex. Phoenix Park buzzed with life, offering glimpses of the Dublin Zoo, the residence of the US Ambassador, and the Irish President’s home, all of which added to the sense of grandeur as we approached our destination.

As we strolled the Farmleigh grounds, we admired the scenic beauty of Thuja Avenue, where parkland stretched to our left while the lake and its charming island graced our right. With time to spare before the performance, we wandered past the Boathouse Café and Daffodil Lawn, past Farmleigh House, finally entering the courtyard, where public facilities and a delightful gift shop awaited.


Venturing further, we explored the art galleries housed in the estate's old stables, showcasing stunning photography that perfectly complemented the history around us.


The clock tower a short walk away caught our attention, its historic presence standing tall, though the stairs were blocked—what a view we imagined from its heights! We couldn’t help but chuckle at the clock tower—its face toward Farmleigh gleamed and ticked proudly while the one facing the street lay silent. It seemed that only the guests of the estate needed to know the time! A whimsical reminder that in this historic setting, time had its own peculiar sense of priority.


A Victorian Encounter
Promptly back at Farmleigh House for our tour, we were greeted by the formidable Mrs. Frances Edwards, a character straight from the 1800s. With a keen eye, she scrutinized our attire and grooming, making us feel both amused and slightly intimidated. Never breaking character, she guided us through the house, imparting snippets of history along the way.

Mrs. Edwards, ever the vigilant housekeeper, kindly reminded us that photography was not permitted inside the house. It was a small but necessary rule, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the rich history and atmosphere without distraction. And will hopefully make you want to go see it for yourself.

Farmleigh’s Rich Heritage
Originally a small Georgian house built in the late 18th century, Farmleigh was owned by the Coote and Trench families before being purchased in 1873 by Edward Cecil Guinness, the great-grandson of the brewery founder. The estate underwent significant renovations between 1881 and 1884 under the talented Irish architect James Franklin Fuller, adding a third story and extending the original structure.

Farmleigh House transitioned from private ownership to a government building in 1999 when the Irish Government purchased the 78-acre estate from the Guinness family for €29.2 million. This significant acquisition marked a new chapter for the estate, allowing it to serve as a premier venue for high-level government meetings, visiting dignitaries, and public events, ensuring that its rich heritage continues to be celebrated and appreciated by all.

As we entered the grand reception area adorned with knights in shining armor, Mrs. Edwards pointed out the intricate details of the decor. “Everything here tells a story,” she said, her voice dripping with authority. “The scullery maids had to ensure every surface gleamed.”

The Formal Dining Room
Next, we entered the formal dining room, a space that truly captivated our senses. It was adorned with exquisite wall coverings, elaborate paintings, and a dazzling chandelier that seemed to sparkle with stories of lavish dinners. As we admired the decor, we were particularly intrigued by a secret door cleverly concealed by paneling—an entrance that whispered of hidden passages and the secretive lives of the household staff.

Mrs. Edwards explained how this room hosted opulent banquets, where the rich and powerful would gather, feasting and discussing matters of state. The atmosphere of the room was thick with history, and we felt a thrill imagining the conversations that once echoed off the walls.

We moved through the elegantly furnished drawing rooms, each filled with sumptuous fabrics and ornate furnishings and the occasional dignitary’s photograph. Here, Mrs. Edwards regaled us with tales of high society gatherings and the etiquette expected of both servants and guests alike. “Should you pass any esteemed guest,” she warned, “lower your heads and curtsy or bow accordingly.”

Private Quarters
After savoring the beauty of the dining room, we ventured upstairs to the private quarters. Mrs. Edwards led us into the bedrooms, where the luxurious furnishings belied the harsh lives of those who served. “This room,” she said, gesturing to a beautifully appointed space, “would have belonged to a manservant. Remember, there was no running water. Discretion was paramount; they’d need to dispose of their own bath and toilet.”

The female staff were strategically quartered in a separate wing, far enough away to ensure that any chance of after-hours mischief was nipped in the bud.

We were struck by the contrast between the opulence of the guest rooms and the grueling realities of servant life. Each space had its own character, whispering stories of both grandeur and hardship.

Life Below Stairs
Descending to the basement kitchen, we were met with a bustling yet dimly lit atmosphere. Here, Mrs. Edwards explained the workings of the household. “This kitchen was once the heart of the estate,” she remarked, her tone shifting from the grandeur of the upstairs. “It’s where the real magic happened, though often unseen by the guests.”

As we observed the vintage kitchenware and enormous fireplace, she recounted how meals were prepared for the dignitaries that graced the house. “Every part of the animal was utilized,” she said, her eyes glinting with pride and a hint of mischief. “Nothing went to waste.”

After our exploration of the kitchen and its hidden safe, we made our way to the expansive dining area adorned with equine art. Mrs. Edwards gathered us around a table, and with a twinkle in her eye, she unveiled a rather shocking menu—one that reflected the culinary curiosities of the Victorian era.

A Culinary Curiosity
As we listened, a mix of laughter and gasps filled the room as she described potential dishes that would have once graced the table:

• Soused Pig’s Face: A dish of boiled pig’s head, brined and served with jelly, eliciting both intrigue and shivers.
• Spinach Ice Cream: Surprisingly sweet, this oddity was made by blending boiled spinach into custard.
• Broxy Meat: This term referred to meat from animals that had died of disease—a grim reflection of the times, primarily consumed by the less fortunate.
• Beef and Lark Pie: Requiring dozens of tiny larks stuffed and baked, it was definitely a meal for the adventurous.
• Sheep Trotters: Simply parboiled sheep feet—rustic, to say the least.
• Calf Ear Fritters: Boiled ears, deep-fried for a culinary thrill. Specially examined to be sure the ear hair had been removed.
• Brain Balls: Yes, they were exactly what they sounded like, with diners able to choose their preferred flavor.
• Stuffed Cow's Heart: Minced meat stuffed into a heart, showcasing the era's no-waste philosophy.

The menu sparked animated discussion among us. We exchanged horrified laughter and incredulous looks, marveling at what once constituted delicacies. “It’s utterly fascinating,” one fellow guest mused, “to see how resourceful they were in using every part of the animal.”

Visiting the Ornamental Dairy feels like stepping into a fairytale with an unexpectedly practical twist. Originally designed to showcase the elegance of pastoral life, the dairy is far more than just a place for milk and cheese production. The façade, adorned with intricate stonework and delicate carvings, seems fit for a royal retreat rather than a working dairy. Yet, behind its charming exterior, it served as a fully functioning facility, producing dairy products while delighting visitors with its idyllic design. One can almost imagine the cream being churned as ladies in fine gowns walked the grounds, admiring the craftsmanship as much as the fresh butter.


A short stroll away, the stables offer a different kind of grandeur. Designed with the same meticulous attention to detail, they are far more than simple housing for horses. The air is thick with history—each polished wood beam and gleaming brass fitting a testament to the importance of equestrian life during the estate's heyday. The stables not only served a functional role but also stood as a symbol of wealth and status, where prize horses were groomed and trained for show and sport. Walking through the space, you can still sense the bustle of stable hands and the quiet power of the magnificent animals that once called this place home.

Assigned the role of John the stable boy, I couldn’t help but chuckle at the irony—gender clearly wasn’t a consideration in the tour’s casting. Still, being allowed to be Catholic and paid a pittance to sleep in the barn didn’t sound so bad, especially with the chance to be near the prized Irish thoroughbreds. As long as I got proper food and no surprise servings of entrails, it seemed like a pretty fair trade!


Exploring the Grounds
After our immersive tour, we were released to explore the pleasure grounds (with tents arranged for an upcoming ceremony), each corner revealing further beauty. The walled and sunken gardens, alongside scenic lakeside paths, offered a tranquil escape from the bustling world outside. The meticulously kept gardens, with their vibrant flowers and lush greenery, seemed to whisper the secrets of the estate, inviting us to linger a little longer.

We strolled along the pathways, pausing to admire the ornamental temple with its copper roof, and ventured toward the small island in the lake, where the gentle lapping of water provided a serene backdrop to our explorations. The intricate design of the gardens spoke volumes of the artistry and care that went into maintaining the estate, a reflection of the family’s legacy.

Our time at Farmleigh culminated with the short hike to the entrance, where we organized a taxi to whisk us away to the Botanical Gardens. A helpful tip: securing your taxi beforehand is wise, as the signal can be fickle in the park’s expansive embrace.


A Journey to Remember
Visiting Farmleigh House during Heritage Week was both a step back in time and an invitation to explore the complexities of Irish history through the lens of service, grandeur, and everyday life. As we departed, the echoes of Mrs. Edwards' admonitions lingered, reminding us that every grand estate has a story waiting to be uncovered. Whether you're a history buff, a theater enthusiast, or simply seeking a day of exploration, Farmleigh offers a delightful experience that will surely leave an impression long after your visit.

In the end, as we reflected on our day, it became clear that the true magic of Farmleigh lies not just in its stunning architecture and lush grounds, but in the lives that were lived within its walls—lives of both privilege and servitude, all woven into the rich tapestry of Irish heritage. A visit here is not merely a stroll through history; it is a profound reminder of the intricate dance between society and service, past and present, all echoing through the hallowed halls of this remarkable estate.

If you’ve been dreaming of visiting Phoenix Park but find it hard to carve out the time, I encourage you to make it a priority. In the 12 years since we began visiting Ireland and purchased our apartment, this was only my third time at the Park—and my very first visit to Farmleigh. Thanks to Heritage Week, I was finally able to experience its beauty and history up close, and I’m so grateful I did. Don’t wait—plan your visit during special events like Heritage Week, and you’ll find the extra nudge you need to explore these hidden gems!


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