Clarence River Wilderness Lodge

Post
Subscribe
Where the rock wallabies and platypus play
I was very lucky recently to spend five days camping at the Clarence River Wilderness Lodge with my Brisbane Bushwalking club. Twenty-one of us travelled down to the area in 4-wheel drive convoy. Dan, our leader, had been there previously and knew not to follow Google Maps as they lead you astray and can take you extra hours to get there.
After meeting up for lunch, we headed off on the rough, steep dirt roads into the Lodge. There was a variety of accommodation options, including cabins, tree houses, bell tents, camping and remote camping. I chose to camp and was very happy because in the early mornings I walked the short distance to the riverbank and saw rock wallabies on the cliffs on the other side of the river. Some of the others in our group stayed in cabins and tree houses. We didn’t see any platypus this trip, but Dan has seen them in the river on his previous visits.
Clarence River Wilderness Lodge is a spectacular, wild and remote destination, situated at the headquarters of the Clarence River in the rugged Great Dividing Range in Northern NSW. Sharon and Stephen Ross run the Clarence River Wilderness Lodge, which is on over four thousand hectares of wilderness which they have preserved for wildlife. Their property was originally called Gaya Dari, which is the local Aboriginal word for platypus.
Sharon and Steve have lived in the wilderness setting for over 40 years. They keep the property as a wildlife refuge to protect the riverine wilderness. The whole area is sustainable. They use solar and are off-grid.
They use compost toilets and source their water from a wet season waterfall located on the mountain behind the cabins into tanks. Visitors are encouraged to recycle rubbish and they provide individual bins to separate paper, glass, metal and organic material. People are encouraged to take home any other rubbish. They only cleared the small river flats and left the remaining 90 per cent of the property as old-growth forest, made up of rainforest and wet and dry sclerophyll forest. There is no mobile phone reception, so you can get away from it all.
Negotiating the track by the river
On our first day, it was rainy, so we did some easy walks along the river and explored the rapids and nearby waterfalls, as well as having happy hour in the riverside kitchen area. A few people went canoeing on the river. We had free access to canoes for our whole visit. There were rapids at both ends of the area where we stayed, and we were advised not to take these canoes over the rapids, but there was lots of room to have a great canoe between both sets of rapids. We saw a sleeping python and lots of birds on our walks.
Python on track to campsite
On the next day, we did our main planned walk. It involved crossing the river in canoes, hiking along the riverbank to the upstream rapids, then heading straight up the hill to the ridge. It was very overgrown with lots of slippery rocks, so it was a bit of a challenge, but very adventurous. Once we got on top of the ridge, we walked along with wonderful views down into the river.
Clarence River and clouds
Looking down at Clarence River
We had a snack along the way and then came back down to the riverbank where we had to walk back and forwards across the river many times in water just below our knees before finding the canoes, which Stephen had left downstream for us to use to get back to our campsite.
Walkers climbing the ridge
Canoe crossing after walk
One poor woman had an awful shock on arriving back at camp. There must have been a huge gust of wind which had taken her tent and canopy into the river. She was camped close to the river. We hadn’t felt the wind up on the ridge. Her tent was zipped up, but all her clothes, a very expensive camera, an iPad and other belongings were in the tent. One other group’s canopy also tipped over, but wasn’t broken.
Tent and marquee in the river
Everyone helped salvage the things from the river, and the woman moved into a cabin with some other people for the rest of the trip.
Every afternoon, we shared happy hour in the camp kitchen and played games and enjoyed ourselves.
Tree house
The next day, we drove to Paddy’s Flat Bridge are,a where we saw the historic tank traps. The Australian Defence Force left behind these traps from World War 11, when it was feared the Japanese could potentially invade Australia. I’d never heard of these traps before this trip.
Tank Trap sign
We explored along the riverbed and then went for a drive to see the Pretty Gully Flora Reserve, which was on Paddy’s Flat Road. It was a beautiful subtropical rainforest that formed a lush canopy over the spring-fed creek. It was named as a flora reserve by NSW National Parks and Wildlife in 1985 to protect the rare species of native plants gazetted in the area.
Tank Traps
That night, we drove to Sunset Lookout for sunset and snacks. It was absolutely beautiful and very well named.
Canooists
On our last day, we packed up and drove to see the gorgeous Tooloom waterfalls and read about the history of that area. The falls are outside the town of Urbenville. They are about eight metres high and drop into a broad, deep pool.
Tooloom Falls
Traditionally, the falls marked the boundary between the Gidabal and Wurlabal clans of the Bunjalung tribe. The word Tooloom is corrupted from the Gidabal word Doolloomi, which means headlice, and it is said that these are found around the deep, potentially dangerous pool beneath the falls. The local indigenous people probably told their children this story to deter them from swimming there. It is also believed spirits live in the pool. Tooloom Falls is one of the most significant sites in Gidabal country and was declared an Aboriginal place in 1977 under the National Parks and Wildlife Act.
Beautiful sunset at Sunset Lookout
It was a wonderful 5 days with 4 nights camping, so if you get the chance to go there, I can really recommend it. It was only $16 a night to camp and there were hot showers and compost toilets. I will definitely go back one day. Next time, I will remember to take my binoculars so I can see those beautiful, playful rock wallabies better and all the gorgeous birds.
Walkers crossing the Clarence River
These directions to the Wilderness Lodge are from the website.
GETTING HERE FROM THE NORTH
Follow Mt Lindesay Highway from Beaudesert. At Woodenbong, turn left to Urbenville. At Urbenville, slight veer right to Legume. Don’t turn left to Tabulam. Follow this road for 12 km. 500 metres after crossing Wallaby Creek Bridge, turn left. The sign says “Paddy’s Flat Road”. It is 15 km to Tooloom Bridge from the turn-off. From there Tooloom Bridge to our gate is 9 km. From the front gate to the Lodge is 7 km of rough track.
GETTING HERE FROM THE SOUTH
Follow Bruxner Highway from Casino to Tabulam. From Tabulam, head west towards Tenterfield another 3 km. Turn right up “Paddy’s Flat Road”. Follow Paddy’s Flat Road 24 km to Paddy’s Flat bridge. After the bridge, it is 8km to the Clarence River Wilderness Lodge front gate. From the front gate to the Lodge is 7 km of rough track.
N.B. The last 7 km of road into the Wilderness Lodge is a private road that descends 300 metres in 2 km and is consequently steep and rough in places. If entering with a 2WD, it would need to have reasonable clearance and NOT be towing a trailer. Using low gear is recommended. The Clarence River Wilderness Lodge offers a tow-in and out service for trailers at $30 per trailer per trip.
You can book a spot by ringing 02 66651337 or email
[email protected]
https://clarenceriver.com/
%wnbrisbane
#adventure
#travel
#walks
#outdoor 308419 - 2025-05-14 08:44:10