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Cancun Cowboys

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by Michael Genrich (subscribe)
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Published July 3rd 2020
Fresh and fun Mexican - American food

Cancun Cowboys at Holden Hill was so close to opening back in March 2020. It must have been a tough decision to postpone things by a few months, but Cancun Cowboys Tex-Mex restaurant is now open for business!

The iconic building next to the police station at Holden Hill on North East Road was originally built as a Chinese restaurant then became a Hog's Breath steakhouse for many years. Its latest incarnation is a smart, bright, and interesting set-up, mixing a more contemporary Texan style with classic Mexican décor.


The spacious interior is decorated Tex-Mex style. It's very subdued and quite dark. The table set-up offers a range of group or intimate dining options. Gone is the old children's corner – replaced by a giant glittering disco ball. The service is quick, friendly, and attentive while the food is fast, fresh, and hot.

Tex-Mex cuisine uses lots of shredded cheese, plenty of beef, pork, chicken and fish, flour tortillas, beans, peppers and often uses different spices to Mexican.

There are some interesting menu items and some unexplained menu terminology. Allow me to elaborate. First up is the whole 'taco/volcano' thing. Taco's at Cancun Cowboys are the soft flour version, while 'volcanos' have their ingredients piled onto a plate a bit like a burrito bowl but with crisp corn chips scattered about. The burrito bowl has a giant corn chip like taco shell leaning on the side. The 'saloons' are really just a fancy way of describing mains dishes, while the mac and cheese is what you think it is, with a few levels of sophistication thrown in on top and your choice of delicious meat or vegan toppings.

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Golden grasshopper taco @ Cancun Cowboys

On this visit, I had to begin with the famous golden grasshopper taco. This is not a drill people, actual chilli and salt dried grasshoppers are served with creamy avocado on a flour tortilla, with a shot of tequila on the side for those who need a little extra courage. It is quite delicious. If the tiny crickets didn't pop with a dry crispy crunch as you chew on the mouthfuls of avocado and tortilla, you would hardly even know they were there. Do try it, just to say you went there.

There are plenty of regular entrée options, including grilled corn, guacamole, sloppy joes, and others.

tex-mex, mexican, american, food, wine, beer, taco, burrito, mac and cheese, sloppy joe, adelaide, holden hill, restaurant, dinner
Baja fish taco

The tacos are priced and sized at an entrée (or mix and match) level. We opted for a Baja fish taco and a fried chicken special. Both are tasty little morsels with excellent textures and flavours.

tex-mex, mexican, american, food, wine, beer, taco, burrito, mac and cheese, sloppy joe, adelaide, holden hill, restaurant, dinner
Fried chicken taco

For mains, we tried a burrito bowl and a mac and cheese bowl, both with Barossa Valley pork belly. The burrito bowl is a fresh collection of rich grilled meats and crunchy pickled cabbage and zingy Pico de Gallo. The mac and cheese is a creamy four-cheese affair topped with crunchy baked cheese and breadcrumbs. The kale topping makes it a little bit greener and some might say, healthier. Both are generous portions so watch out for over-ordering.

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Burrito Bowl

tex-mex, mexican, american, food, wine, beer, taco, burrito, mac and cheese, sloppy joe, adelaide, holden hill, restaurant, dinner
Mac and cheese

There's plenty of sides to go with your meal like black beans, onion rings, double-barrel loaded fries and a green salad. The kid's menu has some regular options like fish and chips alongside mini burrito bowls and mac and cheese.

The drinks list features a range of margaritas (of course), cocktails, beers wines and soft drinks, with a focus on Mexican beer.


Dessert is either a sundae or pecan brownie. The sundaes have an unusual mix of sweet ice cream and sauces with fun toppings like salty pretzels and mini jellybeans. They're a fun and inexpensive way of rounding out the Tex-Mex experience.

Cancun Cowboys is at 550 North East Road, Holden Hill. They're open Wed, Thurs, and Sun from 5 pm – 8:30 pm, and Fri and Sat from 5 pm – 9 pm. Book here and check them out soon!
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Why? Trendy Tex-Mex dining in Adelaide's North-East.
When: Dinner Wednesday to Sunday
Phone: 08 8369 0743
Where: 550 North East Rd, Holden Hill, SA
Cost: Varies but reasonably inexpensive
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