"One of the greatest short walks in the world" is how the National Pass walking track in the Blue Mountains has been described. Ok, so the person responsible for this description may have been my father-in-law, but he is not a man who dishes out compliments frivolously. He has also walked more tracks the world over than I have had hot dinners. If you are not convinced yet, his views happen to be mirrored by none other than UNESCO, who gave the track an Award of Distinction at the 2008 Asia Pacific Heritage Awards.
Opened in 1908, the National Pass was the first official walking track available to the general public in the Blue Mountains natural heritage area, and continues to attract thousands of visitors every year for its spectacular and varied scenery. It begins in Wilson Park, just a short walk from Wentworth Falls Station, with a section called the Charles Darwin Track which follows the meandering Jamison Creek for a couple of kilometres through dense bottle brush and tea tree scrub. The legendary naturalist, who visited the area during his 1836 HMS Beagle voyage, is said to have described what he saw as "magnificent". It has also been suggested that is was in this area that Darwin first saw a platypus, which went on to play a significant role in his system of animal classification. While sightings of monotremes are unlikely these days, the bush is alive with birdlife including bright black and yellow new holland honeyeaters and ruby red king parrots amongst countless others.
As it approaches the top of Wentworth Falls, the creek spills over a series of cascades and gathers in waterholes. Big enough to swim in, these rocky ponds also attract kids in search of yabbies. Wide, sandy baks make an excellent place to stop and for a picnic.
Along with the Three Sisters, Wentworth Falls have become an iconic image of the Blue Mountains. The National Pass crosses right over the top of them, offering panoramic views over the Jamison Valley and out to Mount Solitary. The dense eucalyptus forests below give off an ethereal blue haze that makes clear how the region got its name.
On the other side of the falls, the track enters a white knuckle descent as it clings to the edge of the chalky, pink and white cliffs that rise out of the valley. A network of stairs drop about hallway down the falls before crossing directly beneath them. The cascading water looks like a bride's veil as it spills over the top, dropping at our feet and filling the air with a cooling mist.
From here the track follows the line of the ridge through a section of cool, shady rainforest thick with lime green ferns and moss covered rocks. Clinging to the towering sandstone cliffs, the eucalyptus canopy parts briefly to provide postcard views back over the falls. The screeching of cockatoos can be heard echoing from the depths of the valley.
The track concludes with a dramatic ascent through a network of bubbling cascades known as the Valley of the Waters. Popular for canyoning, this misleadingly named valley is a stunning combination of rapids and thick, rainforest vegetation. A crimson rosella lands on the rocks, its bright red and blue radiant against the green of the rocks.
At the end of the National Pass sits the Conservation Hut Restaurant and Cafe. Originally opened in 1963 as a resting place for tired walkers, the building now houses an excellent restaurant open for breakfast lunch and dinner, seven days a week. With a wide balcony and a cosy interior with open fire, all with spectacular views of the Jamison Valley, the Hut makes a great place to stop for a meal or snack at the end of an invigorating day's walking.
Altogether, the track takes about two to three hours to walk, depending on how often you are compelled to stop and take in the jaw-dropping views. On the whole the walking is not difficult, but there are a couple of steep sections, so beware anyone with a fear of heights or an aversion to multiple flights of stairs.
Wentworth Falls is about 90 minutes drive from Sydney, or a two hour trip on the train from Central station. While it is feasible to walk the National Pass in a day trip from Sydney, the Blue Mountains are best enjoyed over a relaxed weekend, and the village of Wentworth Falls has excellent B&B options in abundance. Our choice is Bunderra Blue, a cosy, family run place just a short walk from the start of the National Pass. With friendly hosts who do a great breakfast, and the ambience of an wood stove fire, Bunderra Blue makes the perfect place to relax, unwind and soak up some of that famed mountains atmosphere.
