You can't call yourself a true Londoner until you've tried the only food authentic to London:
pie and mash and jellied eels. A working class meal dating back to the 18th century, pie and mash is a traditional Cockney delicacy that can be enjoyed in specialist shops across London.
In the beginning, pie and mash was quite a bit different to the dish we enjoy today. Eels sourced from the Thames were used as filling and the pies were served in "Eel Pie and Mash Houses" which were all the rage in East London. In those days, eels were a staple part of the London diet and were one of the few creatures that were able to survive in the murky waters of the Thames. The oldest surviving business from that time is the shop of
M Manze, which has been open since 1891.
This changed over time to become the pie and mash we know and love today. For the uninitiated, pies are filled with minced beef and served with mashed potato on the side. The meal is typically served with a green parsley sauce, referred to as eel liquor sauce, or simply liquor (although it is non-alcoholic).
Eels still exist on the menu, most commonly stewed or jellied and are considered to be the most famous Cockney specialty. The taste of jellied eels can be compared to a pickled herring, though softer, and are prepared by boiling eels in water and vinegar with herbs and allowing the pieces to cool and form their own jelly. They can be eaten hot or cold.
If you like a bit of spice, make use of the home-made chilli vinegar which is often served with both these dishes.
These days, many pie and mash shops have moved with the times and have expanded their menu to include vegetarian and vegan pies as well as other options such as shepherd's pie, side of greens, and even delicious desserts.
Pie and mash shops used to be prevalent but over the past few decades numbers have declined, due to high London rents and fast food chains. Many of the pie and mash shops that are still left standing are proud family-run businesses that have been passed down through generations, and are still classically decorated with white tiled walls and marble floors and table tops.
If it's been a while since you've stepped foot in a pie and mash shop, it's time to reacquaint yourself and enjoy this piece of old hearty British tradition.
