Two hours drive from Brisbane, and tucked away behind the Sunshine Coast hinterland sits the Obi Obi Valley. From the steep mountain forests of Mapleton to the country town charm of Kenilworth, the Obi Obi River winds its way through fertile pastures and citrus farms. Wooden bridges pass over the tinkling crystal waters and red gold maples line the road.
There is a spot to pitch a tent by the fourth river crossing, and toilet amenities just the other side of the bridge. The riverbank is broad and flat, and with a bit of searching yields some of the best skimming stones I've ever come across. The water is still and smooth upstream, but shallow and dancing at out feet. Further downstream a rope swing hangs from a stout tree branch, almost making us forget it's winter. But that's not why we're here.
The roads are quiet and the air cold on our knuckles. Black faced cows watch us from behind lichen festooned fences. A flock of cockatoos float above the lush green fields like dinosaurs. The Obi Obi River pops in and out of view below us. Conversation has stopped and the hypnotic shush of our tyres and rhythmic movement of pedals taken over. We pass abandoned halls advertising 'Full Moon Dances', wooden houses decaying in archaic splendour, and farmers in no hurry to get anywhere.
Lunch is a bottle of wine, some local Kenilworth cheese and a loaf of organic sourdough from La Botiga in Mapleton, finished off with mandarins picked from trees heavy with fruit by the roadside.
To get there from Brisbane, head north on the Bruce Highway, take the Nambour/Mapleton exit and follow the signs to Mapleton. Turn right at the Mapleton Hotel onto Obi Obi Road and follow this down to the valley.
