Covent Garden Market is in the heart of Theatreland, so you'd expect the quality of busking here to be exceptional. And in most cases your expectations will be met. But to see the crème de la crème of buskers you need to park yourself at one of the
Crusting Pipe's outdoor tables and wait for the show to begin, 'cause this is the prime busking pitch and the quality of performance that goes on here is often as good as what you'll see inside the theatres.
The Crusting Pipe hasn't done anything beyond being in the right place to benefit from this asset, but there are lots of things they do make an effort over that should also be noted. In the courtyard the tables are marble topped, and the chairs quite comfortable, which makes it easier to while away whole afternoons here, ordering bottle after bottle from their carefully selected and excellently explanatory wine menu. The also provide a bar snack-y, sandwich-y
menu for the courtyard, on which the temptations include pate, steak burgers, sliced ham and new potatoes, and nachos to share between many.
The Pipe's interior is split into a more formal dining area – which is the bit with the the table cloths – and more bar tables. When they refer to inside though, they're also talking about underground. The Crusting Pipe is set into the lower level of the market which is actually underneath the piazza, so it's like drinking in the catacombs. Which is a nicer experience than you might think it would be.
The
restaurant menu is a bit like what you'd expect from a Parisian bistro, but with home grown ingredients. There are three kinds of steak, potted duck and pate, poached salmon, Beef Bourguignon and duck breast with port and redcurrant gravy. The style of dining is similar as well.
But, aside from the possibility of free entertainment and the oddity of drinking underground, the Crusting Pipe is worth frequenting for their
wine list. The Pipe is owned by Davy's, the wine merchants, who have other quality wine bars dotted around town with similarly impressive lists. The options are weighted towards European varieties, and the prices go up pretty quickly, but it's worth choosing here over a pub because the selection is so good. If you think about the free show and the nice surroundings then you'll see the value for your money.